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Plumbing Priscilla: Copper or Plastic Pipework?

Choosing the right pipework for Priscilla is not simply a contest between traditional copper and modern plastic.

Both materials can provide a reliable freshwater system when correctly specified and installed. The more important questions concern how each will perform within the unusual environment of a narrowboat: confined spaces, vibration, movement, winter temperatures and limited access for future repairs.

Plastic barrier pipe—often loosely described as PEX—appears likely to be the most practical choice for most of Priscilla’s domestic water system. Copper may still have a useful role near heat sources or where rigid, exposed pipework is preferable.

The demands of narrowboat plumbing

A narrowboat’s freshwater system must cope with conditions that differ from those in a conventional house.

These can include:

  • Continuous engine and equipment vibration
  • Movement and minor flexing of the structure
  • Restricted installation routes
  • Difficult access behind linings and furniture
  • Long periods without heating
  • Temperatures below freezing
  • Condensation and persistent humidity
  • Variable pump pressure
  • The need to conserve water and energy
  • Limited opportunities for emergency repairs

The quality of the installation will therefore matter at least as much as the chosen material.

Poorly supported copper can fatigue or become noisy. Badly cut plastic pipe, missing inserts or incorrectly assembled push-fit connections can leak. Either system can fail if it is exposed to frost or concealed where it cannot be inspected.

Copper pipework

Copper is a familiar and well-established plumbing material. It is rigid, strong and capable of carrying hot or cold water within the limits of the complete system.

Its appearance and long history can make it seem like the premium option, but those advantages must be considered alongside the realities of installation aboard a steel boat.

Advantages of copper

Durability

Correctly installed copper pipe can provide decades of service.

It resists ultraviolet light, does not become brittle simply through age and tolerates higher temperatures than most plastic plumbing systems. Its rigidity also helps it retain a neat shape when installed visibly.

Temperature resistance

Copper itself can withstand temperatures far above those normally found in a domestic freshwater system.

This may make it particularly useful close to a calorifier, boiler or other heat source. However, the safe operating temperature of the complete installation will still be limited by its valves, seals, hoses and fittings.

Low thermal expansion

Copper expands less than plastic as its temperature changes.

Long plastic pipe runs can move or bow as hot water passes through them unless sufficient allowance is made. Copper is more dimensionally stable, although it must still be supported correctly.

Resistance to physical damage

Copper generally offers greater resistance to crushing, punctures and accidental impact than plastic pipe.

This could be useful where plumbing remains exposed in storage areas or service compartments. Even so, repeated contact with another hard surface can eventually wear or damage it.

Familiarity and availability

Copper pipe and fittings are widely available. Most plumbers understand how to install and repair them, using soldered, compression or approved press-fit connections.

That familiarity can be valuable when obtaining repairs away from the original boatbuilder.

Disadvantages of copper

Installation in restricted spaces

Copper is comparatively difficult to route through a narrowboat.

It requires numerous bends and fittings, particularly where it must pass around tanks, furniture, hull framing and equipment. Every additional joint increases installation time and introduces another potential point of failure.

Vibration and fatigue

A narrowboat is continually exposed to vibration from its propulsion system, pumps and machinery.

Rigid copper pipe must therefore be properly clipped and protected from contact with the steel structure. Unsupported pipework or a poorly positioned joint could eventually suffer fatigue.

Priscilla’s electric propulsion should produce less vibration than a conventional diesel engine, but pumps and other mechanical equipment will still create movement.

Frost damage

Copper does not accommodate the expansion of freezing water well.

If water becomes trapped and freezes, the pipe or a fitting can split. The failure may not become visible until the system thaws and is repressurised.

This does not mean plastic plumbing is frost-proof, but its greater flexibility can make it more tolerant.

Heat loss and condensation

Copper conducts heat readily.

Hot-water pipes can lose useful energy unless insulated, while cold pipes may attract condensation in warm, humid spaces. Both effects are particularly undesirable aboard a boat, where energy is valuable and hidden moisture can damage the fit-out.

Insulating both hot and cold pipework remains sensible regardless of the material selected.

Cost and installation time

Copper pipe is generally more expensive than plastic and usually takes longer to install.

The material cost may not be decisive within an entire boat build, but the additional fittings and labour can make a complete copper installation significantly more costly.

Water chemistry and dissimilar metals

Copper is corrosion-resistant in many ordinary freshwater applications, but it is not immune to corrosion.

Water chemistry, excessive flow, poor workmanship and contact with incompatible metals can all cause problems. Connections involving dissimilar metals must be designed correctly, particularly within a steel vessel.

The suggestion that copper is unsuitable merely because Priscilla might encounter salt water is too simplistic: the domestic freshwater pipes should not normally contain canal, river or seawater. The more relevant issues are the water carried inside the pipe and the surrounding environment where it is installed.

Plastic barrier pipe

Modern plastic plumbing systems use flexible pipe with compatible fittings, inserts, valves and accessories.

Although these systems are sometimes collectively called PEX, the exact pipe construction varies. Priscilla should use a complete, approved system suitable for potable hot and cold water—not an assortment of nominally compatible components from different manufacturers.

Advantages of plastic pipework

Flexibility

Plastic pipe can be routed around obstacles and through restricted spaces with fewer elbows and joints.

Reducing the number of concealed connections is a substantial advantage. A continuous pipe run from an accessible distribution point to an appliance is generally preferable to several hidden joints behind the fit-out.

Resistance to vibration

The flexibility of plastic pipe allows it to absorb a degree of movement and vibration.

This suits the marine environment, provided the pipe is still adequately supported and protected from abrasion. Flexibility does not mean it should be left loose inside walls or service spaces.

Lower weight

Plastic pipe is lighter than copper.

The saving will be relatively small compared with the weight of Priscilla’s hull, batteries, tanks and fit-out, so it should not determine the decision by itself. Nevertheless, controlling the cumulative weight of every system remains worthwhile.

Faster installation

Push-fit systems can be installed without soldering and with comparatively few tools.

This reduces labour and avoids using a flame within the boat. Components can also be disconnected or modified more readily if the manufacturer’s instructions permit it.

Reduced heat loss

Plastic conducts heat less readily than copper, reducing heat loss from hot-water pipes and condensation on cold-water runs.

Insulation should still be fitted where appropriate, particularly around hot-water circulation routes and pipes passing through cold spaces.

Potable-water suitability

Approved plastic plumbing products are designed and tested for contact with drinking water.

Concerns about chemical leaching should be addressed by selecting a certified potable-water system from a reputable manufacturer, rather than by assuming that all plastic is either safe or unsafe.

Taste and odour can also be influenced by stagnant water, excessive temperature, unsuitable hoses, tank materials and poor commissioning. The complete water system must therefore be specified and flushed correctly.

Disadvantages of plastic pipework

Temperature and pressure limitations

Plastic systems have defined operating limits.

They are widely used for domestic hot water and heating, but this does not mean every plastic pipe is suitable for every temperature. The selected product must be rated for the maximum pressure and temperature that Priscilla’s calorifier, immersion heater and water heater could produce.

Manufacturer data, rather than a general comparison with copper, should determine suitability. JG Speedfit, for example, describes its system as suitable for domestic hot and cold water and central heating applications, while publishing specific pressure and temperature limits. JG Speedfit product information

Vulnerability to abrasion and impact

Plastic pipe can be cut, crushed or worn through if it rubs repeatedly against an unprotected metal edge.

Where it passes through steel framing, bulkheads or furniture, it will require suitable sleeves, grommets or conduit. It should also be protected in lockers where stored equipment could strike it.

Ultraviolet exposure

Some plastic pipework can deteriorate when exposed to prolonged sunlight.

This is unlikely to be a major concern behind Priscilla’s interior lining, but visible runs near windows or outside the cabin must be checked against the manufacturer’s guidance.

Thermal movement

Plastic expands and contracts more than copper as the water temperature changes.

The pipe must be clipped in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions while retaining enough freedom to accommodate movement. Poorly supported pipe can bow, rub, knock or place unwanted strain on fittings.

Rodent damage

Plastic pipe may be vulnerable to rodents.

This should not be an everyday problem aboard a well-maintained narrowboat, but exposed pipework in storage areas must be considered alongside pest prevention and physical protection.

Dependence on correct installation

Push-fit plumbing is straightforward, but it is not foolproof.

Reliable installation requires:

  • Clean, square cuts
  • The correct pipe inserts
  • Undamaged pipe surfaces
  • Full insertion into each fitting
  • Properly supported pipe runs
  • Approved components from a compatible system
  • Protection from excessive heat and abrasion
  • Pressure testing before pipework is concealed

The apparent simplicity of the fittings should not justify careless workmanship.

Is plastic plumbing frost-proof?

No freshwater system should be described as frost-proof.

Flexible plastic pipe may accommodate some expansion if water freezes inside it. Wavin’s technical guidance says Hep2O pipe retains flexibility at sub-zero temperatures and can reduce the likelihood of bursting. It does not remove the need for insulation or winterisation. Wavin Hep2O installer guidance

Fittings, valves, pumps, filters, taps, calorifiers and rigid appliance connections may fail even when the pipe itself survives. Ice can also force a connection apart or cause damage at a local restriction.

Priscilla’s protection against frost should therefore depend upon the design of the complete system, not the flexibility of one material.

Designing for winterisation

Whether we select copper, plastic or a combination, the system should be designed so that it can be drained effectively.

That means considering winterisation during construction rather than attempting to solve it afterwards.

Priscilla should ideally include:

  • Clearly accessible isolation valves
  • A low-point drain for the freshwater system
  • Pipe runs arranged to minimise trapped water
  • Means of draining the calorifier
  • Accessible pump and filter connections
  • Isolation and drainage for external taps and showers
  • Insulation around vulnerable pipework
  • Protection for pipes beside the hull
  • A documented winterisation procedure
  • The ability to identify and inspect every concealed joint

A drain-down system may not remove every drop, but it should prevent significant quantities of water remaining trapped in vulnerable components.

If Priscilla remains occupied and heated throughout winter, frost protection will still need to account for equipment failure, depleted batteries or an unexpected loss of heating.

Accessibility and leak management

A small plumbing leak can cause extensive damage if it remains hidden behind fitted furniture.

The pipework should therefore be arranged around accessible service routes. Connections should be concentrated in inspectable locations rather than scattered behind wall and ceiling linings.

Useful design measures could include:

  • A central distribution manifold
  • Separate isolation for each appliance or zone
  • Continuous pipe runs wherever possible
  • Removable service panels
  • No inaccessible joints below the floor
  • Drip trays beneath vulnerable equipment
  • Moisture sensors in concealed compartments
  • Automatic pump shutdown following abnormal operation
  • A master isolation valve that can be reached quickly
  • Clear labelling and a plumbing diagram in the owner’s manual

A manifold system could allow the galley, bathroom, washing machine and other consumers to be isolated independently. It may also reduce the number of branching fittings hidden throughout the boat.

Pump pressure and water hammer

Domestic boat plumbing is normally supplied by a pressure pump, often supported by an accumulator.

The system must be designed for the pump’s maximum pressure—not merely its nominal operating point. Pipe, fittings, calorifier, expansion vessel, relief valve, taps and appliances must all be compatible.

Rapidly closing valves can produce pressure shocks known as water hammer. Correct pump selection, secure pipework, a suitable accumulator and sensible pipe routing can help control this.

Plastic pipe may absorb some pressure movement more readily than rigid copper, but it should not be used to disguise an incorrectly designed pressure system.

Hot-water safety

Copper’s higher heat tolerance does not automatically make an entire copper system safer.

Water stored at sufficiently high temperatures can reduce microbial risks, but water delivered at a tap can cause scalding. Priscilla may therefore require thermostatic mixing or temperature-limiting arrangements, depending upon the water-heating design.

Particular attention should be given to:

  • The calorifier’s maximum operating temperature
  • Heating by propulsion equipment or shore power
  • Pressure and temperature relief
  • Expansion control
  • Thermostatic mixing
  • The washing machine and dishwasher connections
  • Pipework near the calorifier
  • Manufacturer-required lengths of rigid or copper pipe

Some appliances specifically require a short metal pipe connection before plastic plumbing begins. Their instructions must take precedence over the general pipework design.

A hybrid system

The strongest solution may not require selecting one material exclusively.

A hybrid installation could use:

  • Copper or another approved rigid connection near high-temperature equipment
  • Plastic barrier pipe for the principal distribution runs
  • Flexible potable-water hose only where movement genuinely requires it
  • Accessible isolation valves and manifolds
  • Manufacturer-approved transition fittings between materials

This would combine copper’s temperature tolerance and rigidity with plastic’s flexibility, reduced joint count and resistance to vibration.

However, a hybrid system must remain coherent. Every transition adds a connection, so different materials should only be introduced where they provide a clear benefit.

Comparing the options

Consideration Copper Plastic barrier pipe
Installation More fittings and skilled labour Faster routing with fewer joints
Confined spaces Comparatively difficult Well suited
Vibration Requires careful support More accommodating
High temperatures Excellent tolerance Limited by product rating
Frost Vulnerable if water freezes More tolerant, but not frost-proof
Corrosion Generally durable but not immune Does not corrode
Abrasion Stronger against impact Requires protection from sharp edges
Thermal expansion Relatively low Greater movement
Heat loss Higher without insulation Lower, but insulation remains advisable
Repairs Widely understood Quick if matching parts are available
Potable water Suitable when correctly specified Suitable when appropriately certified
Initial cost Usually higher Usually lower
Hidden joints Often more numerous Can use long continuous runs

What should we specify for Priscilla?

Our present preference would be a high-quality plastic barrier-pipe system for most domestic hot and cold water distribution.

It offers practical advantages that are particularly relevant aboard a narrowboat:

  • Fewer concealed joints
  • Easier installation through restricted spaces
  • Better accommodation of vibration and movement
  • Lower heat loss
  • Reduced risk of corrosion
  • Greater tolerance of freezing
  • Easier modification and repair

Copper should remain under consideration for short runs close to calorifiers or other high-temperature equipment, where required by the appliance manufacturer or where exposed rigid pipework provides better physical protection.

The final specification should require:

  • One complete, reputable plumbing system
  • Components approved for potable hot and cold water
  • Written pressure and temperature ratings
  • Compliance with every appliance manufacturer’s instructions
  • Accessible isolation and drainage
  • Protection against abrasion and accidental damage
  • Minimal concealed joints
  • Thorough pressure testing before fit-out completion
  • Effective insulation and winterisation
  • A documented inspection and maintenance plan

Questions for the boatbuilder

Before confirming the design, we should ask:

  • Which pipework systems do you routinely install and support?
  • Is the proposed system approved for potable water?
  • What are its maximum temperature and pressure ratings?
  • Where will copper or rigid connections be required?
  • Will the system use a central distribution manifold?
  • Can each appliance be isolated independently?
  • How many joints will be concealed?
  • Can all fittings be reached for inspection?
  • How will pipes be protected where they cross steelwork?
  • Where are the low points and drain valves?
  • Can the calorifier and external outlets be fully winterised?
  • How will thermal expansion and water hammer be controlled?
  • What pressure test will be completed before the linings are installed?
  • Will we receive an accurate plumbing diagram and component schedule?
  • Are replacement fittings readily obtainable in Britain and Europe?

Our provisional conclusion

Copper is strong, durable and highly resistant to heat, but it is comparatively expensive, rigid and vulnerable when trapped water freezes. It also requires careful support in a vibrating marine environment.

Modern plastic barrier pipe is lighter, flexible, corrosion-resistant and easier to route with fewer joints. It can tolerate freezing better than copper, but neither the pipe nor the wider system should be assumed to survive frost without protection.

For Priscilla, the most credible approach is likely to be plastic barrier pipe for the main freshwater distribution system, supplemented by copper or approved rigid connections wherever temperature, equipment instructions or physical protection make them necessary.

The deciding factor should not be whether one material is universally better. It should be whether the complete system is accessible, properly rated, resistant to movement and capable of being drained, maintained and repaired throughout Priscilla’s travels.

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Choosing the Right Anchor, Chain and Rope for a Narrowboat

An anchor is easy to overlook when planning a narrowboat. On an ordinary canal, it may remain unused for years.

On a fast-flowing or tidal river, however, it can become the boat’s emergency brake.

If the engine fails, an effective anchor may prevent the boat from being swept towards a weir, bridge, shoal or other hazard. As Priscilla is intended for more demanding British and European waterways, her anchoring equipment must be selected as part of the boat’s safety design.

Is an anchor necessary on a canal?

An anchor is not normally required for routine cruising or mooring on a sheltered canal. Indeed, deploying one unnecessarily could damage underwater structures, cables or services.

The position changes on rivers, tidal waterways, estuaries and commercial navigations. Canal & River Trust guidance states that boats navigating rivers should carry an adequately sized anchor with a suitable length of chain and rope.

Some navigation authorities impose specific requirements. Narrowboats using the tidal Thames, for example, must carry a suitable anchor that is ready for immediate use.

Anchor weight is not the whole answer

It is tempting to select an anchor using a simple table based upon the boat’s length. However, length and anchor weight alone do not determine whether an anchor will hold.

The correct equipment depends upon:

  • The boat’s displacement and windage
  • The anchor’s design and holding performance
  • Expected current, tide and weather
  • Water depth
  • The composition of the riverbed
  • Manufacturer recommendations
  • Requirements imposed by the navigation authority

A typical narrowboat is extremely heavy for its length. A generic recommendation of 10–20 kg may therefore be unsuitable for some boats or passages.

Priscilla’s anchor should be selected only after her final displacement, dimensions and intended cruising waters are known. Advice should be obtained from the boatbuilder, anchor manufacturer and, where appropriate, a competent marine surveyor.

Choosing an anchor type

Different designs perform differently according to the riverbed and available storage.

Fluke or Danforth-style anchors

These anchors fold relatively flat and can provide good holding in suitable sand or firm mud. Their convenient shape makes them attractive where storage space is limited.

They may perform less consistently in weed, gravel, rock or very soft silt, however, and must be correctly set to develop their holding power.

Plough-style anchors

A plough-style anchor can perform across a wider range of bottom conditions and may reset more readily if the direction of pull changes.

Its shape can make it more awkward to store aboard a narrowboat, particularly where there is no dedicated bow roller or anchor locker.

Modern high-holding designs

Newer anchor designs can offer substantial holding power relative to their weight and may set more reliably than some traditional patterns.

Whether one is suitable will depend upon its certified sizing guidance, the intended waterways and how safely it can be stored and deployed from the boat.

No anchor performs perfectly on every riverbed. The choice should reflect the most demanding conditions Priscilla is reasonably expected to encounter.

Chain, rope and the complete anchor rode

The anchor is connected to the boat by its rode: the collective term for its chain, rope or combination of both.

A length of chain next to the anchor serves several purposes. It resists abrasion, adds weight and helps keep the pull closer to the riverbed, allowing the anchor to hold more effectively.

The rope—often called the warp—provides the remaining length and some elasticity. Nylon is commonly used because it can absorb shock, although its diameter and construction must be appropriate for the boat and expected loads.

Generic recommendations such as 6–8 mm chain should not be accepted without calculation. Chain grade, link size, connectors, rope strength and every attachment point must form a compatible system capable of carrying the expected load.

The shackles and swivels can be weaker than the anchor rode if poorly selected. Each component should therefore have an appropriate documented working or breaking strength and be secured against working loose.

How much chain and rope are needed?

The required length depends principally upon water depth and the distance between the water and the boat’s attachment point.

Canal & River Trust guidance for some commercial waterways recommends a total rode approximately five times the greatest expected depth. Its River Severn guidance recommends six times the maximum depth, while specialist advice for particular exposed passages can differ again.

Current Port of London Authority advice suggests a minimum of 5 metres of chain and 25 metres of rope for the Thames Tideway. This is passage-specific guidance rather than a universal specification.

The planned route must therefore be researched before choosing the final length. Thirty metres of rope may be adequate in one location and insufficient in another.

More rode also requires more storage space and must remain capable of being deployed without tangling.

Securing the anchor to the boat

The strongest anchor and rode are useless if their final connection fails.

The inboard end—the bitter end—must be secured to a structural anchoring point capable of sustaining the load. A lightweight deck fitting or ordinary mooring attachment may not be suitable.

The arrangement should allow the crew to:

  • Reach and deploy the anchor quickly
  • Control the rode without becoming entangled
  • Keep clear of rapidly moving rope and chain
  • Confirm that the bitter end is securely attached
  • Recover or release the equipment safely
  • Avoid obstructing normal movement around the boat

The deployment position and structural fixing should be designed with the boatbuilder. Anchoring by the stern in a strong current can expose a low deck or openings to the flow and may be dangerous.

Ready for an emergency

An anchor buried beneath luggage or wrapped in a tangled rope is of little value when the engine stops.

Before entering a river, the anchor should be correctly assembled, accessible and ready for controlled deployment. The crew should understand the procedure and agree who will steer, who will handle the anchor and how they will communicate.

Practical instruction is preferable to attempting the process for the first time during an emergency.

The passage plan must also identify bridges, weirs, prohibited anchoring areas and suitable emergency anchorages. Anchors should never be deployed where charts or navigation notices prohibit it, except where immediately necessary to protect life or the vessel.

Planning Priscilla’s anchoring system

For Priscilla, the anchor cannot be selected from a generic weight table.

The final system will need to consider:

  • Her completed displacement and windage
  • British tidal and commercial waterways
  • The greater depths and currents that may be encountered in Europe
  • Suitable anchor type and manufacturer sizing
  • Adequate chain and warp for the most demanding planned passage
  • Properly rated shackles and connectors
  • A structural attachment point
  • Safe storage, deployment and recovery
  • The possible value of a second anchor for particular routes

This will require more than buying a heavy piece of metal and storing it on the bow.

A properly designed anchoring system is emergency equipment: rarely used, but expected to work immediately when everything else has failed.

That is precisely why it deserves careful planning.

Guidance

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Understanding VHF Radio for Narrowboats

VHF radio is not essential for most narrowboats travelling exclusively on quiet, non-tidal inland waterways. However, it becomes increasingly valuable—and may be required by the navigation authority—when venturing onto tidal rivers, estuaries and busier commercial waterways.

As we plan Priscilla and consider where she may eventually take us, we need to understand both the practical benefits and the legal requirements.

Does a narrowboat need VHF radio?

There is no general requirement for every UK narrowboat to carry VHF radio.

On many canals, a mobile telephone is the more practical means of communication. Different rules can apply on tidal and commercial waterways, however, and some navigation authorities require or strongly recommend VHF for particular passages.

The requirements for the intended route should therefore always be checked before setting out.

If marine VHF equipment is installed or used, it must normally be appropriately licensed.

The Ship Radio Licence

A fixed VHF radio installed aboard a narrowboat is covered by a Ship Radio Licence issued by Ofcom.

The licence relates to the vessel and records its eligible radio equipment. It may also provide the vessel with an internationally recognised call sign and, where applicable, a Maritime Mobile Service Identity number for Digital Selective Calling.

An online Ship Radio Licence is free. The licence holder must keep its vessel and equipment details accurate and comply with Ofcom’s conditions.

A handheld radio used on different UK vessels may instead qualify for a Ship Portable Radio Licence. This follows the radio rather than one particular boat, but has limitations, particularly when travelling abroad.

The operator’s certificate

Licensing the equipment is only half of the requirement.

A marine VHF radio must normally be operated by—or under the direct supervision of—someone holding an appropriate Maritime Radio Operator’s Certificate of Competence.

For most leisure narrowboats using VHF or VHF with Digital Selective Calling, this will be the Short Range Certificate, commonly known as the SRC.

The SRC covers subjects including:

  • Radio controls and correct channel use
  • Routine calling procedures
  • Distress, urgency and safety calls
  • Digital Selective Calling
  • Radio etiquette and message structure
  • Emergency procedures

Courses are available through Royal Yachting Association recognised training centres and can be completed in the classroom or through online study, followed by an examination.

Fixed or handheld VHF?

A fixed radio generally provides greater transmission range because it uses the boat’s power supply and a permanently mounted aerial. It can also be integrated with GPS and Digital Selective Calling equipment.

A handheld radio is portable and useful when operating away from the steering position. Its range and battery life are usually more limited, although a waterproof handheld set can provide valuable backup.

For a narrowboat expected to tackle more demanding waterways, a fixed DSC-capable radio supported by a handheld unit may offer the most flexible arrangement.

Why training matters

VHF is not simply another telephone.

Marine radio uses shared channels and established procedures designed to make communication brief, clear and effective. Incorrect use can interfere with safety traffic or prevent an urgent message from being understood.

Training provides the confidence to make routine calls and, more importantly, to respond correctly during an emergency.

What we will need for Priscilla

If Priscilla carries a fixed marine VHF radio, our planning checklist will include:

  • A free Ofcom Ship Radio Licence for the boat
  • Accurate registration of the installed radio equipment
  • A Short Range Certificate for at least one regular operator
  • The radio licence and operator documentation kept with or near the equipment
  • Checks on the requirements of every tidal or commercial waterway we intend to use
  • Additional checks before taking the radio outside UK waters

More than a legal requirement

VHF radio may be unnecessary for an ordinary journey along a quiet canal, but Priscilla is being designed with more ambitious cruising in mind.

Understanding the licensing, training and equipment now will help ensure that her communication systems are properly planned from the outset.

It is another small part of preparing a narrowboat for a much bigger adventure.

Official guidance