Adventure Category : Waterways

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Day 4: Eighteen Locks to Bram

Our Canal du Midi adventure was finally under way—and it began with one of the most demanding days of the holiday.

The journey from Castelnaudary to Bram covered approximately 16 kilometres and required us to negotiate 18 locks. It was an energetic introduction to the canal, but also an opportunity to experience its remarkable seventeenth-century engineering at close quarters.

Leaving Le Grand Bassin

After completing the boat handover and stowing our supplies, we eased away from Le Grand Bassin in Castelnaudary.

The wide expanse of the basin soon narrowed into the Canal du Midi. Ahead lay around five and a half hours of cruising—and considerably more lock work than we would ordinarily choose for a relaxing first afternoon.

There was little time to settle gently into boating life. Almost immediately, we needed to establish our routine: approaching each lock, handling the ropes, keeping the boat under control and preparing to repeat the process a few hundred metres later.

Learning the locks

The locks of the Canal du Midi differ considerably from those we know on Britain’s waterways.

Many retain the distinctive oval chambers introduced during the canal’s original construction. Their curved walls were designed to withstand pressure more effectively, but they also create unusual currents as the chamber fills or empties.

Working through them required concentration and coordination.

As the afternoon progressed, we became more confident at positioning the boat, securing the ropes and anticipating the movement of the water. The first few locks felt like individual challenges; eventually, they became part of the rhythm of the journey.

Only another 17 to go.

Eighteen locks in one afternoon

There is no disguising the fact that 18 locks is a substantial undertaking—particularly on the first day aboard an unfamiliar boat.

Each lock interrupted our forward progress, but every one also formed part of the experience. We were travelling through structures conceived more than 350 years ago, following a route shaped by Pierre-Paul Riquet and generations of engineers, lock keepers and canal workers.

Between the locks, we passed through a landscape of fields, vineyards and tree-lined towpaths. The slower stretches gave us time to enjoy our surroundings before the next chamber appeared ahead.

The Canal du Midi was already proving that distance alone is a poor measure of a boating day. Sixteen kilometres may not sound far, but after 18 locks, it felt like a genuine achievement.

Arriving in Bram

Eventually, tired but increasingly comfortable with the boat, we reached Bram.

The canal port provided a welcome place to moor after our demanding first cruise. Once the engine stopped, the sudden quiet felt particularly satisfying.

Bram may appear to be a traditional village from the canal, but its historic centre has an unusual secret: it was constructed in a series of concentric circles.

The circular village of Bram

At the centre of Bram stands the church of Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse. Streets and buildings radiate around it in an almost circular pattern, creating one of the finest examples of a circulade village in southern France.

These distinctive settlements developed during the medieval period, often with homes arranged defensively around a church or château.

Walking through Bram revealed the pattern gradually. Narrow streets curved around the centre rather than following a conventional grid, with each circuit drawing us closer to the historic heart of the village.

After spending the afternoon progressing in a straight line along the canal, exploring somewhere built entirely in circles seemed rather appropriate.

Wine and dinner beside the canal

A visit to Vineas Frogg wine merchant offered the opportunity to discover more of the wines produced across the surrounding region—and replenish our supplies after the exertions of the day.

We ended the evening near the canal at L’Île aux Oiseaux, reflecting upon our first journey aboard.

Only that morning, we had been collecting provisions and learning the boat’s controls. By evening, we had travelled 16 kilometres, negotiated 18 locks and reached our first overnight destination.

A demanding but memorable beginning

Our first cruise had given us an immediate introduction to the character of the Canal du Midi.

The locks demanded patience, teamwork and rapid familiarisation with an unfamiliar boat. In return, the journey offered historic engineering, beautiful countryside and the satisfaction of arriving somewhere new under our own power.

Tomorrow would bring an even longer cruise: approximately 36 kilometres from Bram to Trèbes, with another 13 locks along the way.

For now, however, we were content to remain in Bram, enjoy the stillness of the canal and celebrate surviving all 18.

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Day 3: Boarding Our Boat in Castelnaudary

After two days on the road and exploring Carcassonne, the moment we had been waiting for finally arrived: it was time to board our boat and begin our journey along the Canal du Midi.

We left Carcassonne, stocked up on provisions and drove to Castelnaudary, where our boat awaited us beside the vast waters of Le Grand Bassin.

Preparing for life aboard

Before reaching the marina, we stopped to buy everything needed for the journey ahead.

Planning meals for a boating holiday always involves striking a delicate balance. We needed enough food and wine to sustain us between villages, but everything still had to fit inside the boat’s relatively compact cupboards and refrigerator.

With the shopping completed—and considerably more supplies than two people could reasonably require—we continued towards Castelnaudary.

Arriving at Le Grand Bassin

Our starting point was Le Grand Bassin, an impressive expanse of water on the edge of Castelnaudary.

Created as part of the Canal du Midi, the basin once served as an important commercial port. Today, its broad waters provide a striking contrast to the narrow canal channels that would define much of our journey.

At 11.00 am, we arrived at the base, completed the formalities and were introduced to our temporary home.

After a boat handover, safety briefing and explanation of the controls, it was time to unpack. Bags disappeared into cabins, food filled the cupboards and bottles were carefully secured against the inevitable bumps ahead.

Just a Minute: the Canal du Midi

Construction of the Canal du Midi began in 1666 under the direction of Pierre-Paul Riquet.

Completed in 1681, it created a navigable route through southern France, connecting Toulouse with the Mediterranean. Together with the River Garonne and the Canal de Garonne, it helped establish an inland passage between the Atlantic and Mediterranean.

Its construction required an extraordinary network of locks, aqueducts, bridges and reservoirs. Riquet’s greatest challenge was supplying the canal with sufficient water—a problem addressed through an innovative system drawing water from the Montagne Noire.

The Canal du Midi became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Our holiday therefore took place during the thirtieth anniversary year of that recognition.

One minute—and more than three centuries of remarkable engineering.

Learning a new boat

However experienced you may be on the water, every hire boat behaves differently.

The steering responds differently, the engine has its own character and stopping distances are generally discovered through a mixture of instruction, judgement and mild alarm.

We familiarised ourselves with the controls and checked the equipment before preparing to leave Le Grand Bassin.

Ahead of us lay an ambitious first cruise: approximately 16 kilometres from Castelnaudary to Bram, taking around five and a half hours and passing through 18 locks.

It was certainly not the gentlest possible introduction.

Leaving Castelnaudary

With everything aboard, we started the engine and eased away from the base.

Months of research, route planning and anticipation had finally become real. We were no longer merely discussing a Canal du Midi holiday—we were navigating it.

The broad waters of Le Grand Bassin gradually gave way to the canal itself. Plane trees, towpaths and the landscape of southern France surrounded us as Castelnaudary began to disappear behind the boat.

There was little time to become sentimental.

Our first lock—and another 17 after it—was waiting.

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Day 2: Exploring the Medieval City of Carcassonne

After yesterday’s 700-mile drive across France—and our rather frantic 3.50 am awakening—we had earned a slower start.

A welcome lie-in was followed by a day exploring Carcassonne: walking its ancient ramparts, discovering the Château Comtal and experiencing one of Europe’s most remarkable fortified cities.

A much-needed slower morning

There was no alarm dragging us from bed at an unreasonable hour and, more importantly, no deadline involving an international train.

Our Airbnb, just outside Carcassonne’s walls, provided the perfect base for the day. After recovering from the long journey south, we set out to explore the medieval city we had glimpsed on arrival.

Known locally as La Cité, the fortified city rises dramatically above the River Aude. Its double walls, numerous towers and pointed rooftops create the appearance of a storybook castle—although its history is considerably more complicated than any fairy tale.

Walking around the ramparts

Our exploration began with a walk of approximately two miles around the fortifications.

The scale of Carcassonne is difficult to appreciate until you stand beneath its walls. Tower after tower stretches around the hilltop, creating an extraordinary defensive enclosure that has protected the settlement in various forms for centuries.

From the ramparts, we could look across the terracotta rooftops towards the surrounding countryside. The landscape felt very different from the one we had left behind in northern France the previous morning.

Walking slowly also gave us time to notice the many layers of the city’s architecture. Roman foundations, medieval defences and nineteenth-century restoration all contribute to the Carcassonne seen today.

Just a Minute: Carcassonne

Carcassonne’s story began long before the Middle Ages, with Roman fortifications constructed around the settlement.

The Visigoths strengthened the city during the fifth century, and its defences were expanded considerably during the medieval period. The powerful Trencavel family developed the Château Comtal during the twelfth century before Carcassonne came under the control of the French Crown.

By the nineteenth century, parts of the fortifications faced demolition. Architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc instead led an extensive—and sometimes controversial—restoration that created much of the city’s distinctive modern appearance.

In 1997, the Historic Fortified City of Carcassonne was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One minute—and more than 1,500 years of history.

Inside the Château Comtal

At the heart of the fortified city stands the Château Comtal, once the stronghold of Carcassonne’s medieval rulers.

Exploring the castle brought us inside the defensive walls and offered a closer view of their construction. Courtyards, towers, stone passageways and elevated walkways revealed how carefully the fortress had been designed.

The château was not simply an impressive residence. It formed another defensive stronghold within the already fortified city, providing additional protection for those who controlled Carcassonne.

From its walls, we enjoyed impressive views across La Cité and the modern city beyond.

Beyond the fortifications

Carcassonne is more than its walls and castle.

Inside the fortifications, narrow streets weave between shops, restaurants and historic buildings. Although the city attracts visitors from around the world, it remains possible to imagine the generations who once lived, worked and sought shelter within these walls.

We spent the afternoon exploring at a relaxed pace, stopping whenever something caught our attention and enjoying the freedom of having nowhere else to be.

After yesterday’s relentless motorways, travelling two miles on foot felt wonderfully civilised.

Dinner at Le Jardin de l’Estagnol

At 7.00 pm, we finished the day with dinner at Le Jardin de l’Estagnol.

It was an opportunity to relax, enjoy our first proper evening in southern France and reflect upon everything we had seen.

Carcassonne had provided an extraordinary opening to the holiday. Its walls connected Roman, Visigothic and medieval history, while its restoration demonstrated how easily such heritage might have been lost.

Tomorrow, the Canal du Midi

The following morning, we would leave Carcassonne and travel to Castelnaudary, stopping for supplies before boarding our boat at Le Grand Bassin.

After months of planning, our Canal du Midi journey was almost ready to begin.

For now, however, Carcassonne had given us exactly what we needed: a slower day, a remarkable walk through history and an evening spent anticipating the adventure ahead.

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Day 1: The Road to Carcassonne—If Only We Could Get Out of Bed

Every great adventure begins somewhere.

Ours began at 3.50 am, when Chris and Adam woke to discover that they had overslept for a planned 4.00 am departure.

After months of preparation, carefully calculated timings and detailed holiday planning, we had allowed ourselves precisely ten minutes to get out of bed, load the final bags and begin driving to France.

It was an impressively chaotic start to our Canal du Midi adventure.

Ten minutes to departure

The alarm—or our response to it—had not gone entirely according to plan.

Our intention had been to leave home at 4.00 am, giving us ample time to reach Folkestone for our 6.20 am LeShuttle crossing.

Instead, we woke ten minutes before departure.

What followed was less a calm beginning to the holiday and more a hastily choreographed evacuation. Clothes were pulled on, bags were checked and anything not already packed immediately became somebody else’s problem.

Somehow, we got on the road.

Crossing to France

With the first crisis narrowly behind us, we reached Folkestone and boarded LeShuttle for the short journey beneath the English Channel.

The crossing marked the real beginning of our holiday. Britain disappeared behind us and, within approximately 35 minutes, we emerged in Calais with an enormous drive still ahead.

Our destination was Carcassonne—around 700 miles away in southern France.

Calais to Carcassonne

Leaving Calais at approximately 7.55 am, we began the long journey south.

The drive would take around 12 hours, carrying us almost the entire length of France. It was a demanding way to begin a holiday, but it allowed us to bring everything needed for more than a week aboard—including, inevitably, considerably more than we were ever likely to use.

Motorways replaced canals for the day as we travelled from northern France towards Occitanie.

The landscape gradually changed around us. The flatter scenery of the north gave way to the warmer colours and increasingly distinctive character of southern France.

Every mile brought us closer to Carcassonne—and to the Canal du Midi.

Our first sight of Carcassonne

After a journey of approximately 700 miles, reaching Carcassonne brought an enormous sense of relief.

The medieval fortified city dominates the surrounding landscape, with its walls, towers and hilltop position creating one of the most recognisable views in France.

Our Airbnb was situated just outside the city walls, placing us within easy reach of the historic centre while giving us somewhere comfortable to recover from the drive.

After beginning the day in a ten-minute panic and spending most of it crossing France, we had finally arrived.

The adventure begins

Tomorrow would be devoted to exploring Carcassonne properly.

For tonight, simply reaching it felt like an achievement.

The Canal du Midi was waiting, our boat would be ready in Castelnaudary in two days, and more than a week of locks, villages, vineyards and waterways lay ahead.

Our journey may not have started with exemplary timekeeping, but the adventure was now firmly under way.

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A Memorable Weekend Aboard Tilly Mint: Conquering Caen Hill

Some boating adventures begin with the gentle release of ropes and the reassuring rhythm of a narrowboat engine.

This one began with a breakdown on the M25.

We were joining our friends Neil and Naomi aboard Tilly Mint for a long-anticipated weekend on the Kennet and Avon Canal. The centrepiece would be Caen Hill—one of the most spectacular and demanding lock flights on Britain’s waterways.

First, however, we had to reach the boat.

Friday: The journey that refused to begin

We left home at 2pm, looking forward to an evening aboard Tilly Mint.

An hour later, our car broke down on the M25.

Three hours passed before the recovery service arrived and transported us to Basingstoke. We reached the rental-car office at around 7pm, only to face another two-hour wait for a replacement vehicle.

By the time we finally arrived at Tilly Mint, it was 10.30pm.

It was considerably later than planned, but Neil, Naomi and the boat were waiting. After the afternoon we had endured, simply stepping aboard felt like an achievement.

Saturday: Taking on Caen Hill

We began early on Saturday, setting off at 7am for the weekend’s principal challenge.

The full Caen Hill flight comprises 29 locks over approximately two miles, raising or lowering boats by 237 feet. Its most recognisable section is the central run of 16 locks, each accompanied by a large side pound.

Seen from a distance, the locks form an extraordinary piece of canal engineering.

Seen from the deck of a narrowboat, they also represent an enormous quantity of ropes, paddles and lock gates.

Working through the flight required concentration, coordination and considerable physical effort. There was little time to admire the view while moving between chambers, controlling the boat and preparing the next lock.

Nevertheless, the steady progress was immensely satisfying. Each opening gate took Tilly Mint another step through one of the greatest challenges on the Kennet and Avon Canal.

Reaching the end

We completed the day at around 5.40pm—more than ten hours after setting out.

We were tired, exhilarated and ready for a drink.

Fortunately, we found a wonderfully quirky pub where we could celebrate before continuing to an Italian restaurant for dinner and, inevitably, further refreshments.

After the motorway breakdown, recovery truck, rental-car delay and a full day working locks, it felt as though we had packed an entire holiday into little more than 24 hours.

Sunday: Lunch and the journey home

Sunday offered a much gentler conclusion.

We enjoyed a hearty lunch with Neil and Naomi before saying goodbye and beginning the journey home.

There were no major lock flights to tackle and, thankfully, no further roadside dramas.

A weekend to remember

The weekend had not begun as planned, but the difficult journey made finally reaching Tilly Mint feel even more rewarding.

Navigating Caen Hill was demanding, memorable and immensely satisfying—particularly when shared with good friends.

It was a short adventure containing a breakdown, a replacement car, 29 locks, excellent company and a well-earned celebration.

We would happily do most of it again.

Perhaps not the M25.

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A Tranquil Weekend on Tilly Mint—Cruising into Bath

Sometimes the shortest journeys provide exactly the escape we need.

For a peaceful weekend aboard Tilly Mint, we cruised along the Kennet and Avon Canal from Bathampton to Bath Top Lock. From there, the historic city centre—and an afternoon of relaxation at Thermae Bath Spa—was only a short walk away.

It was the perfect combination of slow travel, beautiful surroundings and time to unwind.

An evening cruise into Bath

We arrived at Bathampton on Friday evening and set off towards Bath as the sun began to sink across the canal.

Our journey was only a few miles, but there was no need to hurry. The pleasure came from settling aboard Tilly Mint, watching the scenery pass and feeling the working week gradually disappear behind us.

We moored near Bath Top Lock, approximately a mile from the city centre. It provided an ideal base from which to explore, combining a peaceful waterside setting with easy access to everything Bath had to offer.

Once Tilly Mint was safely secured, we walked into the city for dinner.

Bath’s Georgian architecture looked particularly beautiful in the evening light. We wandered through its historic streets before finding a restaurant and enjoying a relaxed meal together.

It was an excellent beginning to our weekend.

Exploring historic Bath

Saturday morning began with a leisurely walk around the city.

Rain was forecast, but the mild weather gave us time to explore before it arrived. Bath was already bustling with residents and visitors enjoying its shops, cafés and celebrated landmarks.

The city’s history is visible everywhere.

Its Roman Baths reflect its origins as a place of healing and relaxation, while Bath Abbey and the surrounding Georgian streets reveal later chapters in its remarkable development.

We explored at an unhurried pace, stopping at local shops and cafés before making our way towards the main event of the day.

Returning to Thermae Bath Spa

This was our third visit to Thermae Bath Spa, and it remained one of the highlights of spending time in the city.

The spa uses Bath’s naturally warm, mineral-rich waters, continuing a tradition that has attracted visitors for almost two thousand years.

Adam treated himself to a rejuvenating massage while Chris relaxed in the rooftop pool. Floating in warm water while looking across Bath’s historic rooftops provided a wonderful contrast to life aboard the boat.

The weather may have threatened rain, but that hardly mattered from the comfort of the pool.

After a few deeply relaxing hours, we emerged refreshed and ready to return to Tilly Mint.

Cruising back to Bathampton

Later that afternoon, we retraced our route along the Kennet and Avon Canal towards Bathampton.

Leaving the energy of the city behind, the gentle pace of the boat restored the tranquillity with which our weekend had begun.

This is one of the pleasures of visiting somewhere by narrowboat. A city break and a peaceful countryside escape do not need to be separate holidays—the canal connects the two.

By evening, we were back near Bathampton and ready for dinner at a cosy canalside pub.

Over classic pub food, we reflected upon a day of historic streets, warm spa waters and quiet cruising. Outside, the gentle movement of the canal provided the perfect backdrop.

One final morning aboard

Sunday arrived far too quickly.

After a relaxed breakfast aboard Tilly Mint, it was time to pack our belongings and head home.

We had travelled only a modest distance, but the weekend felt like a genuine escape. There had been no demanding itinerary and no pressure to cover miles—just time to enjoy the canal, explore Bath and relax together.

The pleasure of slow travel

Our weekend demonstrated that a memorable boating adventure does not need to involve a long journey.

Bathampton and Bath are separated by only a short stretch of the Kennet and Avon Canal, yet the route offered everything we needed: beautiful scenery, historic surroundings, excellent food and complete relaxation.

Cruising into the city aboard Tilly Mint made the experience feel particularly special.

It was a reminder that some of the greatest pleasures of canal travel can be found only a few peaceful miles away.

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Visiting the Braunston Marina Historic Boat Show

We had originally planned to arrive at Braunston aboard Tilly Mint.

Cruising into one of Britain’s best-known canal gatherings by narrowboat seemed the perfect way to experience it. However, reports of heavy traffic, crowded locks and slow progress persuaded us to exchange the waterways for the road.

It was not quite the entrance we had imagined—but it gave us more time to enjoy one of the highlights of the canal calendar.

A change of plan

Braunston occupies a special place within Britain’s inland waterway network.

Situated close to the junction of the Grand Union and Oxford canals, the village has been an important centre for boating and canal trade for centuries. Each summer, its marina welcomes an extraordinary gathering of historic narrowboats and former working boats.

Our original plan had been to cruise there aboard Tilly Mint. Arriving among a flotilla of other boats would undoubtedly have added to the occasion.

As the event approached, however, we began hearing reports of congestion, long queues at locks and exceptionally busy waterways. With only a weekend available, travelling by boat risked turning an enjoyable outing into a race against time.

We reluctantly left Tilly Mint behind and drove instead.

Arriving at Braunston Marina

Any disappointment quickly disappeared when we reached Braunston Marina.

The site was filled with historic boats, colourful paintwork and gleaming brass. Some vessels had worked Britain’s canals for generations, carrying cargo before the growth of road and rail transport transformed the network.

Their survival represents an enormous commitment from owners, volunteers and specialist craftspeople. Maintaining a historic narrowboat requires far more than fresh paint: traditional materials, engineering knowledge and countless hours of practical work are needed to preserve these vessels for future generations.

Walking among them felt like stepping into a living exhibition of canal history.

Historic boats on parade

The boat parades were among the highlights of our visit.

Watching the historic fleet manoeuvre through the marina provided an opportunity to see the boats doing what they were built to do. Engines chugged, horns sounded and crews exchanged instructions as each vessel passed before the gathered crowds.

The size and handling of the former working boats were particularly impressive. Originally designed to carry substantial loads, they were operated along narrow waterways, through confined bridge holes and into crowded locks—often by families who lived and worked aboard.

Seeing so many gathered together brought that history vividly to life.

Stories from the waterways

The boats were fascinating, but so were the people caring for them.

Owners and crews generously shared stories about their vessels, including their working lives, restoration and continuing journeys across the canal network.

Every boat appeared to have its own history. Some had been rescued from serious decline, while others had passed between generations of dedicated custodians. Their stories reflected the wider fortunes of Britain’s canals: commercial decline, abandonment, restoration and eventual revival as places for leisure, heritage and wildlife.

That combination of boats, people and personal histories gave the event its distinctive atmosphere.

Engines, craftsmanship and canal tradition

Away from the parades, we explored displays, demonstrations and stalls around the marina.

Traditional canal painting, handmade crafts, boating equipment and waterway artwork all contributed to the sense of occasion. Live music and food stalls created a relaxed festival atmosphere, with plenty of opportunities to pause and watch marina life unfold.

The historic engine displays proved especially interesting.

These engines possess a character very different from their modern equivalents. Their distinctive sounds, exposed engineering and carefully maintained components reveal both the ingenuity of their original designers and the skill of those who continue to operate them.

They were powerful reminders that preserving canal heritage involves machinery and practical knowledge as much as boats and buildings.

More than a collection of old boats

The Braunston gathering celebrates far more than beautiful vessels.

Historic boats provide a tangible connection with the people whose labour sustained Britain’s canal network. They carried coal, timber, steel and countless other goods between towns, factories and ports, helping to support the country’s industrial development.

Today, they also serve as moving ambassadors for the waterways.

Their continued presence encourages people to understand how the canals developed, why they mattered and why their future remains worth protecting.

A day well spent

By the end of the day, we were pleased that we had changed our plans.

Arriving aboard Tilly Mint would have been memorable, but driving allowed us to enjoy the event without worrying about queues, delays or the return journey. Sometimes boating requires flexibility—and occasionally the wisest boating decision is not to take the boat at all.

The show delivered everything we had hoped for: remarkable historic vessels, traditional craftsmanship, working engines and a community united by its enthusiasm for the waterways.

Celebrating living canal heritage

Our visit reinforced why events such as Braunston matter.

Britain’s historic narrowboats are not simply museum pieces. They remain working examples of the skills, industries and communities that shaped the canal network. Their preservation ensures that this history can still be seen, heard and experienced on the water.

We may have arrived on four wheels rather than by boat, but the day remained firmly rooted in canal life.

Next time, perhaps Tilly Mint will make the journey with us—although we may check the lock queues first.

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Day 9: The Isle of Skye—Talisker, Fairy Pools and Highland Sunshine

Our journey on the Caledonian Canal had ended, but our Scottish adventure still had one final chapter.

After leaving the boat at Laggan, we travelled west to the Isle of Skye for a day of dramatic landscapes, whisky-making heritage and unexpectedly glorious sunshine.

It was the perfect conclusion to nine memorable days in the Highlands.

Leaving the Caledonian Canal

After one final night aboard, it was time to say goodbye to the boat that had been our home for the past week.

We packed our belongings, completed the handover and left Laggan behind. Although our boating adventure was over, we were not yet ready to begin the long journey south.

Instead, we set off for the Isle of Skye.

The drive was an experience in itself. Winding roads carried us through mountains and alongside lochs, with spectacular views appearing around almost every corner.

After seeing so much of the Highlands from the water, travelling by road revealed another side of this remarkable landscape.

Across to the Isle of Skye

Skye is the largest island in the Inner Hebrides and one of Scotland’s most celebrated destinations.

The island is renowned for its dramatic mountain ranges, rugged coastline and distinctive cultural heritage. Its landscape has been shaped by ancient volcanic activity, leaving behind extraordinary rock formations, steep cliffs and the imposing peaks of the Cuillin.

As we crossed onto the island, the scenery became increasingly dramatic.

This was clearly going to be a very different adventure from our week on the Caledonian Canal.

Visiting Talisker Distillery

Our first major destination was Talisker Distillery at Carbost, on the shores of Loch Harport.

Founded in 1830, Talisker is the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye. Its location, between the sea and the Cuillin mountains, provides an appropriately dramatic home for a whisky renowned for its smoky, maritime character.

Chris, as the whisky enthusiast among us, was particularly excited.

The tour explained how malted barley, water and yeast are transformed through mashing, fermentation and distillation before the spirit begins its long maturation in oak casks.

It was fascinating to see how traditional methods, careful control and generations of experience combine to produce a whisky so strongly associated with its island home.

A whisky enthusiast in his natural habitat

For Chris, the shop at the end of the tour presented both an opportunity and a considerable threat to the available space in the car.

Surrounded by different Talisker expressions and distillery exclusives, he approached the shelves with admirable enthusiasm and rather less concern for the household budget.

Bottles were examined, compared and carefully selected for the journey home.

He was, in short, entirely in his element.

The visit brought together craftsmanship, local history and the distinctive flavours of Scotland. Even for those of us less devoted to whisky, the distillery’s setting and story made it a memorable experience.

Exploring the Fairy Pools

From Talisker, we continued towards the Fairy Pools at the foot of the Black Cuillin.

A series of waterfalls and crystal-clear pools formed by the River Brittle, the Fairy Pools have become one of Skye’s best-known natural attractions.

The walk took us through an open landscape dominated by the surrounding mountains. Water tumbled over rocks and through deep pools, appearing remarkably clear against the darker stone.

Despite their enchanting name, the pools are a product of geology and mountain water rather than any confirmed fairy activity.

Skye, however, is precisely the sort of place where such stories feel entirely believable.

Sunshine in the Scottish Highlands

The greatest surprise of the day was the weather.

After experiencing the Highlands in rain and mist earlier in the holiday, Skye welcomed us with sunshine and temperatures reaching approximately 22 degrees.

Warm Scottish sunshine in May felt like an unexpected luxury.

The clear weather transformed the landscape, bringing out the colours of the hills, water and coastline. The Cuillin stood sharply against the sky, while the island’s lochs and sea inlets reflected the bright afternoon light.

We had packed for Scotland and found ourselves dressed for something approaching summer.

An evening on the beach

Later in the day, we found a sandy beach and spent time walking beside the sea.

The warm sunshine, open coastline and sound of the water created a wonderfully peaceful ending to our Skye adventure.

During the previous week, water had shaped almost every part of our journey—from the engineered route of the Caledonian Canal to the immense depths of Loch Ness.

Now, we were standing beside the sea, looking west from one of Scotland’s most beautiful islands.

It felt like a fitting final destination.

Looking back on nine extraordinary days

As our day on Skye drew to a close, we reflected upon everything we had experienced.

We had cruised through the Great Glen, crossed Loch Lochy and Loch Ness, navigated the five locks at Fort Augustus and reached Inverness by water.

Beyond the canal, we had explored Fort William, Glenfinnan, Urquhart Castle and now the Isle of Skye. We had encountered rain, mist and unexpected sunshine, while learning more about Scotland’s waterways, railways, castles and whisky-making traditions.

Most importantly, we had shared the adventure with Neil and Naomi.

The scenery and historic landmarks had been extraordinary, but the teamwork, conversation and laughter along the way had made the holiday truly memorable.

Until next time, Scotland

Our Caledonian Canal voyage had introduced us to a remarkable part of Scotland.

Travelling slowly through the Highlands allowed us to appreciate the relationship between its landscapes, communities and history. The canal itself was an extraordinary achievement, but it also served as a route into countless other experiences.

Skye provided the perfect finale: rugged mountains, clear pools, a celebrated distillery and a sunlit walk beside the sea.

Scotland had challenged us, surprised us and captured our hearts.

We knew this would not be our last adventure here.

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Day 8: From Drumnadrochit to Laggan—The Journey Home

After an unforgettable evening beside Loch Ness, we began the final stage of our Caledonian Canal adventure.

Our route carried us south from Drumnadrochit, across the remaining length of Loch Ness and through the five locks at Fort Augustus before continuing towards our home base at Laggan.

It was a day filled with familiar landscapes, shared memories and the bittersweet realisation that an extraordinary week on the water was approaching its end.

Leaving Drumnadrochit

We departed in the morning, leaving behind the friendly boaters with whom we had shared dinner and drinks the previous evening.

Loch Ness stretched before us once again, surrounded by the immense Highland landscape. The water appeared calm and inviting, offering us a peaceful start to our final full day of cruising.

Although we were retracing part of our outward route, the journey felt very different.

We were no longer wondering what lay ahead or worrying about unfamiliar locks and open-water crossings. During the previous week, we had grown comfortable with the boat, the canal and working together as a crew.

That familiarity allowed us to relax and appreciate the scenery more fully.

One final crossing of Loch Ness

Cruising south across Loch Ness gave us another opportunity to experience its remarkable scale.

The dark water extended between steep wooded slopes, with distant mountains creating an impressive backdrop. From the centre of the loch, our hire cruiser once again felt very small against the surrounding Highland landscape.

We passed Urquhart Castle, where we had explored the ruins the previous day. Viewed from the water, its dramatic position on the shoreline was every bit as impressive as we remembered.

Naturally, we continued watching for Nessie.

After two passages across the loch without a sighting, we were beginning to suspect that Scotland’s most famous resident might be deliberately avoiding us. Perhaps she was shy—or simply unimpressed by hire boats.

Either way, the legend had added a little extra mystery and fun to our journey.

Returning to Fort Augustus

Eventually, Fort Augustus appeared at the southern end of the loch.

Only a few days earlier, arriving here had marked the beginning of our Loch Ness adventure. Now it represented another milestone on our journey home.

The village and its distinctive flight of five locks had become familiar, but navigating them remained a significant undertaking. Once again, we needed patience, concentration and close teamwork to guide the boat through each chamber.

This time, however, we approached the task with considerably more confidence.

Back through the five locks

Moving through the Fort Augustus lock flight required us to repeat the careful routine we had learnt on our outward journey.

Ropes were positioned, instructions exchanged and the boat guided steadily from one chamber to the next. As the water levels changed, we kept the cruiser safely controlled and prepared for each movement through the flight.

The work was still physical, but it no longer felt quite as daunting.

Chris, Neil, Naomi and I had developed an effective rhythm. We understood our respective roles and communicated more easily, drawing upon everything we had learnt during the holiday.

Our first passage through these locks had felt like a test. The return journey demonstrated how far we had progressed as a crew.

Familiar waters and new perspectives

Beyond Fort Augustus, we continued south-west along the canal towards Laggan.

The scenery was familiar, but travelling in the opposite direction revealed different views. Places that had represented the beginning of an adventure now prompted memories of everything that had happened since.

We thought about crossing Loch Lochy beneath the Highland mountains, exploring Fort William and becoming thoroughly soaked at Glenfinnan.

We remembered pulling the boat through the Fort Augustus locks, reaching Loch Ness for the first time and finally arriving in Inverness.

There had been castles, museums, historic villages and welcoming pubs. There had also been changing weather, tired arms, shared meals and evenings spent laughing with friends.

The canal had provided the route, but those experiences had created the adventure.

The peaceful rhythm of the canal

Our journey towards Laggan was deliberately unhurried.

After the scale and openness of Loch Ness, returning to the narrower canal brought a renewed sense of calm. Trees and greenery enclosed the water, while the gentle pace allowed us to notice details that might previously have passed unnoticed.

By now, operating the boat had become almost instinctive.

We had learnt how it responded, how to approach the locks and how to work together when something required attention. Tasks that had seemed unfamiliar at the start of the holiday had become part of our daily routine.

That growing confidence made it difficult to accept that we would soon have to hand the boat back.

Returning to Laggan

As Laggan drew closer, the end of our journey became impossible to ignore.

This was where our adventure had begun: the place where we had first boarded our temporary floating home, unpacked our belongings and tried to understand how everything worked.

Returning felt both satisfying and strangely emotional.

We had completed our journey through the Great Glen, travelling from Laggan to Inverness and back through some of Scotland’s most spectacular landscapes.

There was an enormous sense of achievement—but also disappointment that the experience was almost over.

After securing the boat, we began the less exciting task of gathering our belongings and preparing for departure. The cruiser that had initially seemed unfamiliar had become home during our week aboard.

Reflections on the Great Glen

Our Caledonian Canal holiday had given us far more than a route through Scotland.

It allowed us to experience the Highlands slowly, from the water and in the company of close friends. We had travelled beneath mountains, crossed immense lochs and passed through engineering structures that had connected Scotland’s east and west coasts for more than two centuries.

The holiday also reminded us why travelling by boat can be so rewarding.

Progress was measured not by speed or distance but by landscapes explored, locks completed and experiences shared. There was time to notice the changing weather, watch the shoreline and appreciate each stage of the journey.

It was very different from our previous adventures aboard Tilly Mint, yet it strengthened our love of life on the waterways.

An adventure shared

Most importantly, this had been an experience shared with Neil and Naomi.

Operating the boat, tackling the locks and making decisions together had tested our teamwork—but it had also created countless moments of laughter and companionship.

The spectacular scenery will always remain part of our memories, but so will the quieter moments: meals aboard, conversations over drinks and the satisfaction of completing another challenging stretch of water together.

Those moments transformed a boating holiday into something truly special.

The journey home

As evening settled over Laggan, we looked back upon an unforgettable week.

We had crossed Loch Lochy and Loch Ness, explored Fort William and Inverness, visited Glenfinnan and Urquhart Castle, and travelled through the remarkable landscape of the Great Glen.

The Caledonian Canal had challenged, surprised and inspired us.

Tomorrow, we would leave the boat and begin the long journey south. For tonight, however, we were content to remain aboard for one final evening—reflecting upon everything we had experienced and appreciating the last quiet moments of our Highland adventure.

The journey may have brought us back to where we started, but we returned with new memories, greater confidence and an even stronger desire to discover where the waterways might take us next.

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Day 7: From Inverness to Drumnadrochit—Urquhart Castle and a Night beside Loch Ness

Having reached Inverness the previous day, it was time to begin our return journey through the Great Glen.

Today, we cruised back across Loch Dochfour and onto Loch Ness, stopping to explore the magnificent ruins of Urquhart Castle before spending the night near Drumnadrochit.

It became a memorable day of Highland history, spectacular scenery and good company beside one of the world’s most famous lochs.

Leaving Inverness

We departed Inverness in the morning with mixed emotions.

Reaching the Highland capital had felt like a significant achievement, but turning back towards Laggan also reminded us that our Caledonian Canal adventure was approaching its conclusion.

The city gradually disappeared behind us as we followed the canal towards Loch Dochfour. Urban surroundings gave way once again to trees, open countryside and peaceful water.

Before long, we were back on Loch Ness.

Returning to Loch Ness

Experiencing Loch Ness for a second time allowed us to appreciate it from an entirely different perspective.

The loch remained immense and atmospheric, stretching between steep wooded slopes beneath the changing Highland sky. Although we were retracing part of our route, the landscape looked different when viewed from the opposite direction.

Our destination was one of Scotland’s most celebrated historic sites: Urquhart Castle.

Its ruins occupy a dramatic position on a rocky promontory overlooking Loch Ness. Approaching from the water revealed precisely why this location had been strategically important for centuries.

Arriving at Urquhart Castle

Few castles can boast a setting as impressive as Urquhart.

The ruins rise directly beside Loch Ness, surrounded by mountains, open water and an extraordinary sense of history. Boats travelling along the loch enjoy a particularly striking view of the castle’s remaining walls and towers.

We went ashore to explore the site and learn more about its turbulent past.

Urquhart Castle developed over several centuries and became an important stronghold during Scotland’s medieval conflicts. Control passed repeatedly between rival forces, and the castle featured prominently during the Wars of Scottish Independence.

It was eventually abandoned following the destruction of its gatehouse in 1692, intended to prevent Jacobite forces from using it as a military base.

Exploring the ruins

Walking through the castle grounds brought its history vividly to life.

We explored the surviving walls, chambers and defensive structures, imagining how imposing the stronghold must once have appeared. Despite its ruined condition, the scale and strategic importance of the site remain clear.

Grant Tower provided especially impressive views across Loch Ness. From its elevated position, we could see along the dark water in both directions, with the Highland landscape rising dramatically around us.

The setting felt peaceful, but the castle had witnessed centuries of conflict, raids and political upheaval.

That contrast made the visit particularly powerful.

Onwards to Drumnadrochit

After leaving Urquhart Castle, we continued towards Drumnadrochit.

The weather was kind, with occasional sunlight breaking through the clouds and bringing warmth and colour to the landscape. Loch Ness appeared less brooding than it had during our outward journey, although we continued to watch for any suspicious movement beneath the surface.

Nessie once again declined to make an appearance.

Drumnadrochit is closely associated with the Loch Ness Monster and attracts visitors from around the world hoping to discover more about the enduring mystery. For us, however, it provided a welcoming place to stop after another rewarding day on the water.

An evening with fellow boaters

We moored near Drumnadrochit and found ourselves among a friendly group of fellow boaters spending the night beside Loch Ness.

One of the pleasures of a boating holiday is the easy camaraderie that develops between people sharing the same waterway. Conversations begin with boats, routes and weather before quickly expanding into stories about journeys, mishaps and memorable places.

That evening, we gathered beside the water for food and drinks.

As daylight faded, the sky softened into shades of orange and pink, reflected across the calm surface of the loch. Surrounded by Highland scenery and enjoying the company of other travellers, it was difficult to imagine a better setting.

The laughter, conversation and shared experiences made the evening one of the highlights of our holiday.

History, scenery and friendship

Today captured many of the qualities that had made our journey through the Great Glen so special.

We travelled across the legendary waters of Loch Ness, explored one of Scotland’s most atmospheric castles and ended the day sharing food and stories with fellow boaters.

Urquhart Castle connected us with the region’s turbulent history, while the evening near Drumnadrochit reminded us that the most memorable moments of a holiday are often created by the people encountered along the way.

Tomorrow, we would continue south towards Fort Augustus and bring our Caledonian Canal adventure closer to its conclusion.

For tonight, we were content to enjoy the tranquillity of Loch Ness, the warmth of good company and the memories of another remarkable Highland day.