After negotiating 18 locks on our first afternoon aboard, we might reasonably have planned a gentle second day.
Instead, we faced the longest cruise of the holiday: approximately 36 kilometres from Bram to Trèbes, with another 13 locks along the way.
It would demand around seven and a half hours on the water—and provide a wonderful opportunity to settle into the rhythm of the Canal du Midi.
An early departure from Bram
We left Bram knowing that we had a considerable distance to cover.
Yesterday’s intensive introduction had at least made us more confident with the boat. The controls no longer felt entirely unfamiliar, and we had begun to establish a routine for approaching locks, handling ropes and sharing the work.
Nevertheless, 36 kilometres represented an ambitious day by canal standards.
The engine started, the ropes were released and Bram’s quiet port gradually disappeared behind us.
Finding our cruising rhythm
The previous afternoon had been dominated by locks. Today brought longer stretches of uninterrupted cruising, giving us more time to appreciate the canal itself.
The Canal du Midi wound through the countryside beneath avenues of trees, passing vineyards, fields and small settlements. In places, the waterway seemed almost enclosed by the landscape; elsewhere, the views opened across the Aude countryside.
Progress remained unhurried, but that is precisely the pleasure of travelling by boat.
At walking pace, details that would disappear from a car became part of the journey: reflections beneath stone bridges, people passing on the towpath and the constantly changing patterns of sunlight across the water.
Another 13 locks
Although fewer than yesterday, 13 locks still required plenty of concentration.
By now, we were beginning to understand how the boat responded inside the Canal du Midi’s distinctive oval chambers. Each lock brought its own currents, awkward angles and opportunities for Chris and Adam to offer entirely different opinions about what should happen next.
Our technique was improving—even if our communication occasionally remained a work in progress.
The locks divided the long cruise into manageable stages. We would travel for a while, prepare the ropes, work through another chamber and then continue towards Trèbes.
Each successful passage carried us farther from Castelnaudary and closer to the Mediterranean.
A full day on the water
Seven and a half hours aboard sounds leisurely until it includes steering, locks, ropes and the sustained concentration required to handle an unfamiliar hire boat.
By the afternoon, the scale of the day was becoming apparent.
We had covered substantially more ground than yesterday, while still negotiating structures built as part of a canal more than three centuries old.
Tiredness was beginning to set in, but so was a growing sense of confidence. The Canal du Midi no longer felt like somewhere we had merely come to visit. For the duration of the holiday, it was becoming our route through southern France.
Arriving in Trèbes
The sight of Trèbes was especially welcome.
The town occupies an important position where the Canal du Midi meets the River Aude and the Orbiel. Its canalside port offered a lively contrast to the quieter rural stretches through which we had travelled.
After approximately 36 kilometres and 13 locks, we found our mooring and finally stopped the engine.
The silence that follows a long day’s cruising is one of boating’s simplest pleasures. After hours of engine noise and constant movement, arriving brings an immediate sense of stillness—and considerable satisfaction.
An evening beside the canal
With the boat secured, we could turn our attention to Trèbes.
The port is lined with places to eat and drink, making it an ideal stopping point after a demanding journey. Les Vignes de Bacchus offered the prospect of local wine, while Le Moulin de Trèbes provided a picturesque canalside setting.
Whichever table we chose, dinner felt thoroughly earned.
Over food and wine, we reflected upon how quickly the holiday had gathered momentum. In little more than a day, we had travelled from Castelnaudary to Trèbes and worked through 31 locks.
Our arms knew about every one of them.
A forced day of rest ahead
Tomorrow was 1 May—a public holiday in France.
With the lock keepers not working, we would remain in Trèbes for the day rather than continuing along the canal.
After two demanding cruises, this was far from an inconvenience. It offered time to explore the town, replenish our supplies and enjoy the boat without needing to move it.
For now, we were simply pleased to have reached Trèbes.
Our longest cruising day was complete, another 13 locks were behind us, and a welcome day of rest lay ahead.