Some boating adventures begin with the gentle release of ropes and the reassuring rhythm of a narrowboat engine.
This one began with a breakdown on the M25.
We were joining our friends Neil and Naomi aboard Tilly Mint for a long-anticipated weekend on the Kennet and Avon Canal. The centrepiece would be Caen Hill—one of the most spectacular and demanding lock flights on Britain’s waterways.
First, however, we had to reach the boat.
Friday: The journey that refused to begin
We left home at 2pm, looking forward to an evening aboard Tilly Mint.
An hour later, our car broke down on the M25.
Three hours passed before the recovery service arrived and transported us to Basingstoke. We reached the rental-car office at around 7pm, only to face another two-hour wait for a replacement vehicle.
By the time we finally arrived at Tilly Mint, it was 10.30pm.
It was considerably later than planned, but Neil, Naomi and the boat were waiting. After the afternoon we had endured, simply stepping aboard felt like an achievement.
Saturday: Taking on Caen Hill
We began early on Saturday, setting off at 7am for the weekend’s principal challenge.
The full Caen Hill flight comprises 29 locks over approximately two miles, raising or lowering boats by 237 feet. Its most recognisable section is the central run of 16 locks, each accompanied by a large side pound.
Seen from a distance, the locks form an extraordinary piece of canal engineering.
Seen from the deck of a narrowboat, they also represent an enormous quantity of ropes, paddles and lock gates.
Working through the flight required concentration, coordination and considerable physical effort. There was little time to admire the view while moving between chambers, controlling the boat and preparing the next lock.
Nevertheless, the steady progress was immensely satisfying. Each opening gate took Tilly Mint another step through one of the greatest challenges on the Kennet and Avon Canal.
Reaching the end
We completed the day at around 5.40pm—more than ten hours after setting out.
We were tired, exhilarated and ready for a drink.
Fortunately, we found a wonderfully quirky pub where we could celebrate before continuing to an Italian restaurant for dinner and, inevitably, further refreshments.
After the motorway breakdown, recovery truck, rental-car delay and a full day working locks, it felt as though we had packed an entire holiday into little more than 24 hours.
Sunday: Lunch and the journey home
Sunday offered a much gentler conclusion.
We enjoyed a hearty lunch with Neil and Naomi before saying goodbye and beginning the journey home.
There were no major lock flights to tackle and, thankfully, no further roadside dramas.
A weekend to remember
The weekend had not begun as planned, but the difficult journey made finally reaching Tilly Mint feel even more rewarding.
Navigating Caen Hill was demanding, memorable and immensely satisfying—particularly when shared with good friends.
It was a short adventure containing a breakdown, a replacement car, 29 locks, excellent company and a well-earned celebration.
We would happily do most of it again.
Perhaps not the M25.